서양 여성복 Bodice의 입체화 방법에 대한 역사적 고찰

Abstract

Western clothes began to be body-fitted from the middle ages and have changed into various forms. As the functionalism and simpiicity were persued througt the modern society western clothes became to be the clothes for all over the world This thesis analyged the changeo of the bodice patterns for western wonen's clothes from the middle ageo to the 19th century and studied the characteristics of three-dimensional construction methods with the changes of the times. Bodice patterns for western women's clothes from the historic booko of costumes were selected to analgge the three-dimensional construction methods. The magor conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. Three-dimensional construction methods used to fit the body were cutlines of side seam line center line and lacing princeeo lines cutlines of waietline darts and yoko. 2. Bodice patterns were similar to box shape and construction methods were simple in the early stage of the body fitting construction methods. Cut-out lines of side sean line and center line lacing were used in the middle ages darts and princess line were shown in the laten middle ages. Cutlines of waistlines were appeared in the early modern ages. Darts were used much with princess lines and cutlines of waistline in the middle ages. 3. gradually more construction lines for body fitteing were adapted and bodice patterns were divided into many panels to fit the form of the body. There were no dart lines in the middle ages and as times go by to the modern ages two princess lines were adapted togethen to the front or back bodice and princess line and dart line were adapted together princess line dart line cutline of waikt line yokeo were weed together. In the late 19th century the most dams seams were used in the periods of buefle styleo and seilthouette atyllo. Inyhe late 19th century the most darts seams were weed in the periods of bustle stylle and S silhouettle styleo. Versatile construction methods were weed from the middle ages to the modern ages conparing the bodice patterns of present dayo to those of the past only some of the patterns used in the paet are adapted nowadayo. So the results of histonical analykin of bodice patterns are expected to the references for the developaments of fashion design.