업스타일의 時代的 形態 變化 分析을 通한 現代的 업스타일의 技法 適用에 관한 硏究

Abstract

In a research on the history of beauty, it is a fact of failing to be performed actively yet a research on comparing up-style between France and Joseon period. Especially, it is the reality of being much lacking in an effort for a research on formative property in the works of these periods and for a part of integrating with modern up-style. Accordingly, this researcher intensively analyzed on a change in artistic sensitivity and hair style on beauty culture in this period regarding the French Civil War, comparatively analyzed these things by carrying out a research on up-style in Joseon period side by side, and applied the technique of modern up-style to here. Thus, the aim was to be conducive to development in modern beauty culture. This study comparatively analyzed between the up-style in empire era, which can be said to be the start of practical beauty culture following Baroque and Rococo in France that had been the representative symbol in flamboyance and artistry, and the up-style in Joseon period of the same era, and then made the modern up-style technique. Thus, the following results could be obtained. The following are the results that analyzed the up-style in Baroque, Rococo, and Empire Era. First, as the fontange style is practical style, it was begun from simple style of binding the scattered hair, but was changed gradually into colorful style. It did put hair up in a knot by using a hat of having been made of gauze cloth and the muslin-cloth lace, rolled roundly, and then fixed it to the wire frame. Second, the Pompadour style did cut the bangs shortly, scorched it with a hair curler frizzily, slightly sprinkled powder, rolled the back hair in, and then covered it sometimes with a hat of being attached lace or gauze. Third, as the pouf style is the style of Madame Dubarry, who had been another concubine of Louis XV, it decorated the high hair by using lace and feather. As for a method of raising hair highly, a method was used that puts a wick like horsehair cushion or puts a hank of hair. It originatively decorated by putting a hairpin in hair and using pomade. Fourth, the Titus style gave wave to short hair, thereby having led to being curly, and did let hair down so that a few strands of hair on the back neck can be left. It ever fixed hair by using band sometimes. As for the common characteristics of up-style in this period, the form in a style, which mainly emphasized the upper part of head, was shaped much. The big wig can be known to have been used in order to maintain a form of style enough to be emphasized colorful and symbolical significance with the center on aristocracy. The following is the classification according to up-style in Joseon period. First, kinds of eonzeun-meori include Eoyeo Meori, Tteoguji Meori, and Ko Meori. It is the shape of eonzeun-meori by roundly putting hair up in a knot by braiding woman's hair. In case of the prior researchers Sohn Mi-gyeong(Korean women's trace. 2004) and Jeong Jeong-hwa(A research on hair style in Joseon Dynasty. 2007), the division in eonzeun-meori is being set for separate concept. However, this study classified it as the upper concept of hair style in all the forms of using big wig. Second, jjok-meori parts hair straightly in the middle of the bangs, finely combs to the left and the right without being scattered hair, binds hair to the back of the brain, braids with one line, binds the end with maegae daenggi, rolls the braided hair roundly on the left hand, and rolls the remainder with the remainder of the maegae to the hair end of having begun to braid. After then, it pulls the hair, which had been rolled roundly on the left hand, to the right, makes oval in order to be seen maegae daenggi in the middle, wears an ornamental hairpin in order to pass the bottom of maegae daenggi from right to left, and fixes jjok-meori. Kinds in jjok-meori include several kinds of hair styles such as Cheopji-meori, Beolsaeng, Sangtu, Ssanggye, and corolla. Third, as Daesu is the hair style that had been used in full-dress uniform, which is queen's attire for ceremony at Court, it is hair style that uses big wig, lets hair down from the crown of the head from the shoulders, and fixes it with several pieces of Heukgakjam. Here is decorated with Daeyongjam, Daebongjam, Soyongjam, Ddeoljam & Nabisangdan Ddeoljam, Dwiggoji Jinjugae, Jokduri, Meori Sakgeum Daenggi, Dwit daenggi. When seeing the mode of Daesu from the front, the top of hair is made Gogye. The left hair forms type A as going down up to the shoulders on the left and the right in the bottom. Binyeo(Korean traditional ornamental hairpin) was worn, which was sculptured Bong(鳳) to both ends of hair. As in the front side, even the back side is same as what forms Gogye and spreads the left and the right with type A. However, it is different in what braids thick hair with two parts in the middle of the back hair, and binds purple silky daenggi. Fourth, as for teure-meori, women braid dari with two parts in the lower part of the back hair, put it up by placing one to the back of the right ear and placing another to the slight left from the central part of the occiput, roundly twist with 'Ttwari' shape in the side of a parting by gathering the two pieces of twisted hair, make it down to the left by gathering two pieces of hair to the bottom of it, make one piece of the twisted hair a large loop, and then allow it to cover the ear and cheek. As Daenggi, which had been tied to the end of hair, is black and purple daenggi, it is 45-50㎝ in size and 3-4㎝ in width. During mourning, a party was expressed by being bound the ink daenggi by Noron and the white daenggi by Soron. Women in common class didn't make a loop of covering the ear by not using Dari or using Dari in thin dari, thereby having differentiated from women in Sadaebu. With the same method as teure-meori, it parted hair, did put it up to the front by contrarily twisting to the left and the right after braiding each, gathered to one side by roundly twisting once again, handled the end to the bottom of hair, and placed decorative daenggi to the right side. In this way, the severally hair styles including eonzeun-meori in Joseon period were much loved by women regardless of rich and poor, high and low. The hair style of having been decorated a big wig can be seen much in women who appeared in most of a genre painting in the late Joseon. It tried to produce the up-style form suitable for wedding, fashion show, hanbok(Korean traditional clothes), and evening style by applying the modern up-style technique along with comparing up-style between France and Joseon period. This study was performed centering on a genre painting and a figure painting in the period, thereby having had limitation in analyzing style. Also, the style, which is popular in the period, has been performed centering on the specifically super class. Thus, it cannot help recognizing that a research on common people's hair style has been neglected. A future follow-up research is desired to be performed a research on modern up-style by seeing this matter.