朝鮮時代의 美意識과 치레文化에 關한 硏究

Abstract

The female adornment culture in the Joseon Dynasty was expressed dually one of which was commoners' oppressive and conservative adornment in the patriarchal society backed by settled Confucian idea, and the other was showy adornment of the female who had specific professions such as court ladies and gisaengs whose outdoor activities were acceptable. However, as the dual adornment culture was based on ethnic aesthetic consciousness, the mixture of national shamanism faith and the idea of Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism, it's important to comprehense our conventional aesthetic consciousness. Hereupon, this researcher considered the Joseon Dynasty' conventional aesthetic consciousness to know how it influenced the make-up and hair style of the female in that period, and then looked into how it is applied and expressed for the beauty art of today. This researcher arranged this thesis by dividing largely into 3 parts excepting introduction and conclusion parts. In chapter Ⅱ, I searched for the symbolic implication on five colors as ideological background and coloristic characteristics of the background of the Joseon Dynasty' aesthetic consciousness. In chapter Ⅲ, as a study on female make up culture in the Joseon Dynasty, I tried to figure out the female status at that time and the particularity of the gisaengs who did social activities as the female owned specific occupation, and paid concentrative attention to the make up culture and hair style at that time to find out how the aesthetic consciousness mentioned in chapter Ⅱaffected female adornment culture. In chapter Ⅳ, I examined the classical adornment culture currently appearing on TV broadcasting and PR & performances to grasp how our unique aesthetic consciousness is applied to modern beauty art and how it is seen. The Joseon Dynasty was the time when the idea of Confucianism was established as soon as its opening and then was very strict with moral restriction over female in the middle of it leading people to have controlled, simple and plain aesthetic characteristics. Besides, they preferred natural and simple ornament based on their conventional naturalistic idea that never defying the nature. On the other hand, the gisaengs, who made their living through the relationship with men were very extravagant preferring white skin, dark eyes focused make up and beautified their heads with Ga-che-hair. But in such luxury, an emotion of five colors that holds pure physical beauty and coloristic trait could be detected. In addition, there is no doubt that such conventional aesthetic consciousness that influential on our adornment culture is still alive today. Eventually, I aim to prepare the opportunities for the basis of scientific beauty art as my academic study on beauty art through recognition of its history and consistent concern.